by Jimmy Cocktail
15. October 2009 05:13
I was in the Snooth forums a while back discussing the merits of the Norton grape. For those of you that don’t know, Norton is a grape native to North America and it was first cultivated here in Virginia. Actually, let me rephrase that. While some people think it is native to North America, it has pretty much been determined that it is a 
hybrid of one or more Vitis aestivalis grapes (those native to Eastern North America) and one Vitis vinifera (native to the Mediterranean, central Europe and southwestern Asia) grape. Which specific ones are not and may never be, determined. It is also the official grape of the State of Missouri.
It was from this fact that our discussion began. It seems that a wine made from the Norton grape won a gold medal in the 1873 Vienna World Exposition. It was supposed to be the next big thing in the wine world back then. One thing I am most definitely not certain of is whether the wines of that time were judged by the same criteria as we judge them today. It is quite possible that we would judge a wine of similar character today as swill, immediately to be poured out or let go to vinegar. In any case, the Norton grape never seemed to catch on in popularity back then.
Fast forward to the new millennium. Currently, the single largest planting of Norton is at Chrysalis Vineyards in Northern Virginia. An astounding number of Virginia and Missouri wineries make wines from this grape. It grows exceptionally well in the Eastern US and produces a grape that is similar to Concord but slightly less sweet. It can also produce a wine without a characteristic known as “foxyness”, something that native American grapes are known for.
As I just mentioned, there are a fair number of wineries in Virginia making wines from this grape. Unfortunately, it is one of those things where the marketing aspects outweigh the quality of the wines being produced. You walk into a tasting room and look at the list of wines offered for tasting and you’re like, “Oh crap, another Norton.”
That all changed recently though when I went recently to Barrel Oak Winery in Delaplane, Virginia. I went through the “Oh crap” phase when I heard they were tasting a Norton, but they assured me that this was not like any Norton that I had tasted before. They were quick to point out that this 2008 vintage had just won Double Gold and Red Wine of the Year at the 2009 Indianapolis International Wine Competition. “Ok,” I thought to myself, “So maybe this wine has some promise, but is it any good?”
Well, I’m here to tell you that is is quite good. The first thing you notice is its color. A very dark ruby color that turns translucent (you can see light through it) when the light hits it just right. Very reminiscent of the gem of the same name. It’s simply beautiful. The nose is one of cherries with an earthy undertone of moss and leaves. Upon first taste, one is hit with the taste of big fruity cherries and a nice little bit of acidity to offset the fruitiness. there are hints of roasted corn, moss and hazelnut on the nice long finish. It is a medium to heavy bodied wine, something that will stand up well to any strongly flavored dish you would want to pair it with. It has very soft tannins which make this an enjoyable wine to drink now. Priced at $25 this is well worth buying two and sticking one away for a bit.
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