When is a lager not a lager?

If you look at a map of Germany you'll see the city of Köln listed. For those of us here in the US, it would more likely be recognized as Cologne. It is the fourth largest city in Germany after Berlin, Hamburg and Munich. It is one of the oldest cities in Germany having been founded by the Romans in 38 BCE. It is known as a cultural center with a thriving community of museums and galleries. Yet, there is something else that this city is known for, something that draws our attention to it today, something that is quite unique in a country known for it's beer. Köln is the home of a special style of beer called Kölsch. Not just home, but according to EU agreements it is the only place where Kölsch can be made.

Kölsch is a beer similar to but not exactly like a German pilsner. Where the traditional pilsner is highly hopped, Kölsch has noticible hops but they are less prominent than in the pilsner. It is a clear beer with a bright straw yellow color. The major difference between Kölsch and a traditional pilsner is in the yeast used to produce it. Rather than being brewed with a bottom fermenting (lager) yeast as pilsners are, Kölsch is produced with a top fermenting or ale yeast. The fermentaion is allowed to complete at normal top fermenting yeast temperatures (50-75 F) and then the beer is cold conditioned or lagered similar to the way a pilsner is. This leads to a bigger, rounder mouth feel than a traditional pilsner.

One of the premier breweries in Köln is Reissdorf. It was founded in 1894 and it is known as a producer of Kölsch. As such, I felt it was my duty to procure a bottle and sample it for all of you.

It is exactly as you would expect given the above description. Straw yellow in color, it is hoppy but not bitter or skunky as some German pilsners can be. It is not thin or watered down like American pilsners. It has a slight sweetness that is balanced nicely by the hops. In short, it is an excellent all purpose beer. Light enough to be consumed on a hot day or after hard work or play, yet substantial enough to so that you don't want to just keep powering through one after another. I give this beer a big thumbs up.